Discover Krknjaši Lagoon in Croatia

Imagine Calypso, the mythical nymph, detaining the wandering Odysseus in her own styled Paradise, offering a secluded white sandy beach, a sheltered cove of translucent turquoise water, along with scents of jasmine, pine and ambrosia.

Sent by Zeus, the wing-footed Hermes braved tumultuous seas to reach this sybaritic garden spot replete with an array of heavenly pleasures.

But such god-like intervention to find such magic—a tranquil island affording breathless views and peaceful, shallow bays nestled below moss-covered hillsides and only reachable by boat—is no longer necessary.

Paradise is easily found.

Perhaps a mermaid won’t be seen. And while lost treasure from sunken pirate ships might go undiscovered, unspoiled Croatian beaches will still evoke a Calypso-like spell of pure enchantment.

Sprinkled alongside the Adriatic Sea, and typically kissed by gentle waves and winds, these beaches are the defining characteristic of Croatia—for this blessed land boasts 2500 miles of island coastline, and is clearly a sunbathers’ delight.

Countless coves await with luxury or family-friendly accommodations, cafes buzzing with throbbing nite life, shallow bays for skinny-dipping, and silvery sand for alluring relaxing in the sun.

Amid this bounty of serene and scenic retreats, one beach relatively close to Trogir and Split in Dalmatia is particularly radiant.

I should keep its’ dreamy appeal a secret, for the soft whispers of the waters surrounding Drvenik Veliki island give me a certain freedom, solitude, and the chance to swim alongside gloriously-beautiful fish.

Relatively few tourists have discovered this idyllic retreat, so I will resist the temptation to keep it a mystery. So enjoy the schools of fish, walks in the fine smooth sand, and sail to the Blue Lagoon to discover Krknjaši Beach, Croatia’s sparkling gem.

Other seaside getaways offer more watersports, activities for children, and innovative cocktails in trendy restaurants.

But Krknjaši still conjures up the Calypso inside me, never hoping visitors will stay seven years on this isle—yet still knowing they will feast on all its’ pleasures.

Those joys immediately begin with the short boat passage through the lagoon, the gentle breezes filling me with expectation. Bounding off the boat, I was soon lying on pristine white sand, transported to a welcoming, carefree realm.

Krknjaši is so lulling, so sublime, foregoing lunch is easy. Listening to the gulls and lapping waves is far more delicious. So I will wait to retreat to a nearby fish restaurant. Now it’s just time for enjoying the sun’s rays, following the path of those birds flying towards the horizon, and occasionally dipping my feet into the water, giggling every time a fish brushes into my legs.

Only when the sun is about to set—and the soft hues of a passing day leave their own memorable impressions—is it time to repair to that restaurant.

So the punctuation to this perfect oasis begins with a few fishes, then some grilled prawns and squid. The menu offers other Mediterranean specialties all complemented with wine from Dalmatia and hot homemade bread with a generous serving of olive oil. It’s a splendid way to end a magical day.

Sitting under the stars in this small, cozy place will long be remembered. Yet maybe it was the wine, or just the stars playing tricks on my imagination, for out in the lagoon, I saw some movement, several large splashes.

“What could it be?” I wondered.

Fascinated, I knew I would have to come to Krknjasi again, for that was the only way to solve this mystery—whether these seductive waters could really be the playground for some whimsical mermaid.

One that seemed to be waving at me.

Written by Anita Palada, Edward Kiersh

Ferrata Omiš Dinara Mountain

If you want to fly learn how to climb!

My heart was violently beating. I was so afraid of flying.

Every time I walked in the mountains I jealously looked at the birds soaring above me, and wanted to be just like them, free to spread my wings, to reach the sky.

These birds just didn’t stay in one place. They could wander, be playful and independent, free to see the world, and to enjoy Nature’s wonders.

Here was my opportunity to be like a bird, to reach new heights, and to touch the clouds—if I could overcome my fears and do Ferrata.

But as I looked at the cliffs, the difficult to pass boulders, the many cables, and the other hurdles attached to doing Ferrata, my becoming a true “bird” seemed impossible. I was that scared.

I also knew that a young, inexperienced bird had to be courageous, so I tried to banish all the bad thoughts in my head—the horror movie which had me coming to a very untimely END.

Omiš Dinara Mountain
Omiš Dinara Mountain

But could I really fly? Could I roam over the sea, be a part of Nature, and feel her power?

I didn’t usually have so much self-doubt. I certainly didn’t admit defeat  too often. I liked taking chances—and because the views atop these cliffs overlooking the magical Adriatic Sea were so exhilarating, it was impossible to turn away from the mountain, to refuse this chance to take flight.

So there was no more thinking, no more doubts.


I would be a bird. Brave and determined.

I hooked up the carbines with steel sites, gazed up at the menacing-looking boulders—and said a quick prayer to God. “Please protect this small bird. Help me fly for the first time. I want to see the world. See oceans and forests. Please watch over me. Help me become fearless.”

So I took my first steps.

I saw the team of climbers, moving, climbing, everyone in line. Led by experienced climbers, we moved toward the mountaintop, even as I kept wondering, “Why am I doing this?”

But I also realized every little bird has to take chances, leave the nest of security and learn to fly, to be free. Sure it meant risking my life, but I couldn’t live my life crippled by fear.

I kept climbing. After digging and burying carbines, I had this new amazing feeling. It was a wondrous surge of energy, electricity, an unqualified sense of FREEDOM. It was a feeling joyously new to me. I was a bird…I was completely alive.

At the summit the pleasures continued. Outstretched before me were glorious green hillsides, the azure Cetina River, and a necklace of coves with alluring white beaches.

The mountain first seemed to be a cluster of rocks, harsh, unfriendly and beyond conquering. But believe me, they are special rocks. They led me to discovering new strength, new resolve, and the faith that I could take risks, overcome mighty obstacles.

So I often return to Omiš Dinara Mountain to feel the wind and to see my fellow birds hovering over me. I wave to them. They make all sorts of happy noises, as if noticing that I too know how to fly. I do!

Like them, I am also free.

Via ferrata through the Čikola Canyon – Can I fly once again


Was it unusual to follow a river that didn’t flow through its riverbed? The Čikola river has disappeared.  It didn’t want to show us her beauty and the joy she usually radiates. We looked for a few drops, but we didn’t find them. We climbed the heights of her canyon to see the Čikola moving, to hear her roar. We went down close to the river bed into the trough and waited patiently, but she didn’t answer!

We were here, in the heart of Čikola Canyon walked through  its beautiful land. Ready to explore the canyon heights, depths, wild and  untouched nature which surrounded us. Wide meadows welcomed us. All around us, it was beautiful and with  multicolored flowers. They invited us to join them. We sat there for the moment, touched softly their petals, and smelled its magic scent. We were drunk of nature and its beauty but had to go on. Where? To climb Ferrata!

Maybe you don’t know what Ferrata is? Maybe you haven’t yet felt the power of a harness with two leashes connected with steel cables, fixed to the rock of sides of cliffs. If you ever have the desire to fly over the clouds and be free, try it. Believe me it is an amazing feeling!


We finally started to climb Ferrata.

The Ferrata of Čikola was something unique and remarkable, it was an unknown place for all of us. A totally new experience.  Although we climbed many Ferrata like Perun, Omiš Dinara, and Kozjak several times, we were  aware that we must appreciate nature, all new cliffs, and their power.

I am very experienced in Ferrata but despite that, my little heart was beating faster. I looked at my friends, tried to prepare for my first steps. The climb started! No more thinking this was  time to act.  My sense of adventure boosted my adrenaline. I Felt alive, in my natural surroundings.  I felt free, but could I fly once again?

Sometimes climbing seems impossible, but I knew I have had to be brave, mentally strong and my legs and arms would work perfectly.

I had to climb my first difficult cliff.  My inner voice whispered to me to be brave.  Even if nothing has gone perfect, I had to be patient.

Obstacles confronted me. It was harder than I  thought. I tried to push  my entire body to go on, to reach a distant carved step. Unsuccessful! I was in a trap! I knew I had to stay, took a breath. I wondered how was I going to conquer  this huge  cliff. I tried once again, pushed my body  to catch another carved step with my arms. The first obstacles were overcome!  I did it!

I could  fly! I found  a measure of happiness which I always wanted. I really understood now the meaning of happiness.  I was overjoyed, grateful to God for this perfect gift and day.

We promised  to come back to Čikola river  and enjoy her beauty again. When? In the time  when she will be ready to show us her charms and full beauty. We don’t want to disturb her moments and her freedom of choice. We have the patience to wait,  to discover her charms slowly.  Čikola river will swell again in its bed and we will be delighted to see her full beauty, the most powerful potential of water.

Soon Čikola River! We will be back!