A Terra Madre Winery – a breathtaking view of  the Neretva Bay

 

Everywhere you turn, there’s nothing but boulders and thickets on the hilly terrain by the sea. Will this meager land in Komarna, near Dubrovnik, ever be able to bear juicy fruits ripened in the sun? A few wondered, many doubted, but not the bravest, Stipe and Damir Dominikovic and Davor Martinovic. After a series of business successes in the partner company “Poljopromet”, they decided to take on a new business challenge – the reclamation of karst on hillslopes. They wanted to plant new vineyards on that rocky soil and grow their own vines.

From the rocky terrain to the Decanter award

The rocky, steeply sloping terrain wasn’t too promising, but they wanted to cultivate at least 5-6 hectares. The venture began! Heavy machinery occupied the hill. The crushing of the boulders started on a wide area surrounding the hill, first cautiously, and then more and more resolutely. Day by day, their idea took on a more and more concrete form.

 “We had to dare, resist the conventional belief that nothing can grow on this rocky terrain. The most important thing was to beat this hard, long-neglected soil and prepare it for planting new vines” – director Davor Martinovic began his story.

Today, the vineyards cover a total area of 16.55 hectares and have 125,000 vines.  Perched on top of a small hill is the contemporary Terra Madre winery, occupying 800 square metres and equipped with giant wine containers and wooden barrels to store wines. The upper floor occupying 400 square metres is intended for wine tasting. It is the gastronomic paradise for all who are eager to savor delicious wine and domestic food: prosciutto, cheese, marinated and salted anchovies. The terrace offers a magic and unforgettable view. The clear blue sea of the Neretva bay merges with the azure blue sky, green vineyards of the Pelješac peninsula, one of the best-known wine-growing regions in Croatia, and Mali Ston Bay, a gastronomic destination renowned for oysters.

Thanks to several hardworking and persistent people like Davor, Damir and Stipe, Komarna has become the youngest Croatian terroir. The endless rows of vines at the foot of the hill merge with the craggy shore. This harsh rocky environment is where plavac mali grows. “That autochthonous Croatian variety gives excellent sugars and acids, as well as sharp flavors and bitterness,” continues Davor. “But in addition to plavac mali, we also planted smaller quantities of the French syrah and cabernet sauvignon varieties, which give plavac extraordinary gentleness and softness”.

“This is limestone, dry area with minimal fertile land. Therefore, we irrigate the  plavac vines in the initial stage of ripening, which repays us manifold in quality. Bora, scirocco, triple insolation, karst, sea, and sun affect the grape yield and wine quality”.

Silver will soon be replaced by gold!

Wine Plavac Mali Premium
Wine Plavac Mali Premium

The Terra Madre winery produces five types of wine, including two reds made from the plavac mali variety. This production requires aging in wooden barrique barrels for up to three years. Plavac mali premium wine is made from plavac grown on selected terrains. “Yields are lower in quantity because pruning is regulated, and the fruits are partly removed. Due to this, the wine is of special quality. The silver medal won at Decanter, a prestigious London wine fair, testifies to this”, says Davor proudly. His daughter and trusted associate Vedrana Martinovic Trutina (32)  joined our conversation, too.

“When we exhibit at wine fairs, especially at the biggest ones such as ProWein in Dusseldorf, it becomes clear to me where we are and what we do, and how strong our competition is. It is great to be in the company of winemakers from around the world. We are constantly working to be as close as possible to them in terms of offer and quality. But we also have our powerful aces up our sleeve – organic production, indigenous varieties, new vineyards, and a God-given location”, says Vedrana, also revealing that her biggest desire is to place the wines on new, still undiscovered international markets.

Dubrovnik guests drink Terra Madre rosé

In addition to red wines, plavac combined with syrah gives an extraordinary mild Rose. “That is the wine most sought after in Dubrovnik area, especially popular among female guests who like to drink it as an aperitif wine or in combination with light seafood. Pošip is a white wine that pairs well with Adriatic white fish, swordfish, John Dory fish, dentex fish and shellfish, and especially with oysters from Mali Ston”, Davor shares his abundant experience.

K7 wines are drunk in prestigious American restaurants

Overseas markets also recognized the quality of wines from Komarna. The enterprising American woman of Croatian roots visited the Terra Madre winery as a guest. She liked their wines so much that she wished to offer them to all Americans, and she succeeded! As other winemakers from Komarna joined this project, she grouped them all under the unique K7 brand. The market’s differences and administrations were reconciled successfully, and Americans can drink that wine in more prestigious restaurants.

How to drink and stay on your feet?

The oenologists Marko Šuman and Gorana Dominikovic are influential wine experts. They have been taking care of young and aged wines for a long time.

They are continually checking the quality and maturity, especially of red wines aged in barrels and bottles, for up to five years before tasting. We cannot relax until we get positive quality ratings. We do this from day to day, from year to year, because mature wines get consumed, while at the same time new ones are being produced”, says Marko and continues:

“We taste wine every day. We have to feel all its flavors, and at the same time, memorize that taste from yesterday. Every sip of wine must be clean, rinsed with water so that the flavors do not overlap and mix. The palate is our most important ‘tool’ for assessing the quality, dryness or hardness of wine.”

These two young people make a great team, although Gorana is still learning next to Marko. Next year he will let her take care of the cellar, while he plans to devote himself more to the vineyards where, in his own words, “the quality of wine stems from.” They are always supportive of each other. The greatest pleasure for them is recognition for a job well done and high-quality wine. Terra Madre winery is undoubtedly at the forefront of the wine-making business, side by side with well-known wine producers.

An unforgettable vacation in a vineyard by the sea

But this is not where the story ends! These hardworking people do not stop planning and dreaming new dreams. Director Martinovic has retired, but he is still developing new projects with his partners.

The soon-to-be-opened luxury restaurant will provide special delicacies, grilled Adriatic fish, traditionally cooked meat, and homemade cakes. Apart from the wine tasting, the terrace with splendid views will offer a new gastronomic experience as well. Enjoying the small stone-lined Dalmatian houses surrounded by the green vineyards and drinking wine under the starry sky is bound to lift each spirit. What more can one wish, except to visit that magical place?

 

   Pig Heaven

Written by Anita Palada, Edward Kiersh

Photos: Anita Palada, Hotel Marmont

Mr. Pig is very muddy.

It’s been raining in this heavily-forested, northeastern part of Croatia near  Lika, and finding acorns on the pastures close to the Korana River means lots of scampering through the mud.

Black Pig
Black Pig

He runs, jumps, sniffs a lot, burrowing his pink nose deep into the ground. Mr. Pig is very determined, seemingly aware that being a member of his very elite Black Pig fraternity carries great responsibilities.

The Sweet Seduction

Written by Anita Palada, Edward Kiersh

Photos by Anita Palada, Goluzarije

“The seduction, the magic, begins with the hands, the kneading, the stretching,” laughs this modern-day Michelangelo sculpturing another sweet masterpiece in his cozy Split patisserie.

“Of course my perfect strudels also need eggs, vanilla cream, the top ingredients, the very best almonds, nuts, yogurt mix and how I interpret various secrets, Croatian recipes from the past,’” continues Ivan Matić, 43, frenetically reaching for heaping amounts of sugar and gloriously-tart cherries.

 

“But the real secret to making great strudel is the hands. Mine are filled with love. They are very sensitive. Perfect for making wonderful Strudel.”

His colleague, baker Eleonara Višić, enthusiastically agrees. Standing alongside him, his partner in sweetness, she emphasizes just how critical hands are to preparing dough for kneading. An equally-experienced artisan, schooled by her beloved mother and grandmother, she compares her work to a much-revered painting, the always-crowded, sweetly-scented Guluzarije bakery to an artist’s studio.

 

“When I see dough I see a blank canvas in front of me,” she passionately explains. “I’m a painter with a brush in my hand. I have an image of the dough, how I will transform it with creams and fillings, how I will mix these vivid colors. I completely immerse myself in the dough so my hands and spirit are giving life, love. The dough then gives me a lot of great scents in gratitude.”

But this duo’s deeply-felt passion—and ambitions—go far beyond strudel. While they meticulously sift flour, mix sugar, and stretch the dough into just the right flaky thickness for strudel, these tradition-minded Croatians are also faithfully “recreating the specific smells and tastes of people’s childhoods in Dalmatia”— offering classical desserts that have long disappeared from bakeries.

Welcome to Goluzarije Patisserie
Welcome to Goluzarije Pastry Shop!

“The real people of Split are proud of their culinary traditions, rich and full of sweetness,” insists Ivan. “Fritters are a traditional cake in our country, made for hundreds of years, but they could not be bought anywhere. I want to evoke happy moments spent in homes with families, so I am making Brač Hrapoćuša, Trogir rafioli, apple and cherry strudels, vanilla rolls. Menus from a lost time.”

Matić’s devotion to the past has spurred dreams about the future. He hopes to open two more “fairy tale” patisseries. In the meantime, patrons animatedly chat with Eleonora about concocting a strudel crust coated with melted butter, and seek out more than baking advice from Ivan.

The Best Fritters In Split
The Best Fritters In Split

“People know I have a big heart like a bus, that I know all about love,” says Matić proudly, keenly eying his oven to make sure the dough bakes for 30 minutes at 180 degrees.

“I tell them that love goes through the stomach first. Eating fine food, it is one of the ways to seduce a woman, and to maintain love beloved woman is smiling and happy, and I always want to see her that way. I want to treat my guests to the same beautiful experience, to eat deliciously, and to love each other.”

Now that people are increasingly flocking to Guluzarije, Ivan thoroughly enjoys seeing people laugh with every flavorful bite of his strudel. Their smiles are making him—and Eleonora-even more committed to offering “absolute perfection.”

“Pastries are happiness, so here dough is our love,”says Eleonora. “When I prepare cakes I am transported to a different dimension, another state of mind. I am happily divorced from reality.”

It’s a wondrous realm both of these bakers want to share with each of their strudel lovers.

Goluzarija Joyful Team
Best Regards From Goluzarija Joyful Team!

 

split dalmatia croatia

        Split continues to be enjoyed for its’ high-voltage

Beware, once seduced by the floral scents and “secret recipe” sensations, temptation quickly takes over. It’s all too easy to feel bewitched, even helpless.

Marinko Biškić made one-ton chocolate bar
Marinko Biškić made one-ton chocolate bar

Casting a spell that promises only joy and playfulness,   Marinko Biskić, a former Guinness World Record holder, boasts a special gift. In Nadalina, his pint-sized Split boutique, this artisan meticulously and zealously creates hand-crafted pleasures—chocolates infused with lavender, rosemary, fig and olive oil.

“They are love and passion,” extols Biskić, standing behind a counter filled with pralines and chocolate bars. Ardently discussing how his concoctions are made from the choicest Peruvian and Domincan Republic cocoa beans, he continues, “We are the only ones in Croatia to roast the beans, to not use ready-made chocolate. We mix spices, sage, anise…always experimenting with new flavors, to me chocolate is for the palate and the soul.”

Mirroring Biskić’s infectious enthusiasm, a wild and artistic bent that compelled him to celebrate Nadalina’s 25th anniversary by producing a 101 sq. meter, one ton chocolate bar, Split is similarly mischievous, unpredictable and exciting. Unlike that devoured chocolaty slab (which was the Guinness record holder in 2015), Split continues to be enjoyed for its’ high-voltage, adrenaline-fueled nightlife, partying and festivals, especially the Ultra Europe music fest.

Always throbbing with laser lights shows and cocktail extravaganzas, Split has had a pronounced BUZZ ever since Roman Emperor Diocletian sought refuge on these sun-caressed, Adriatic shores in A.D. 295. He built a must-see palace (a UNESCO World Heritage site stuffed with treasures), along with a labyrinth of bedeviling cobblestoned passageways—and to appreciate strolling,  first find some sustenance.

At Krafne kod Mate—where marmalade, vanilla creme, or chocolate donuts are artfully baked by Mate Bajamić. Using only choice flour, he insists donuts “expressing love” can only be made by bakers “coming to work in a joyful mood.” So feel the energy in this minute space, and discover that the chocolate donuts are pure happiness.

Arterija brings other types of dazzling pleasures. Located inside the palace, this bold, cutting-edge “concept store” attracts modish fashionistas hoping to find attention-grabbing necklaces and earrings, simple yet provocative and unconventional dresses. Here there is a powerful, even defiant feminine aesthetic—and under the ownership of Gorana Gulišija, “fashion is passion.”

Arterija Shop

Instead of breaking with tradition, the Uje Deli Shop pays tribute to the past, particularly Croatia’s rich  agricultural heritage. Besides offering a dizzying array of locally-sourced olive oils—there are savory, golden-green varieties from Hvar and Brac—Uje boasts an abundance of carefully-curated wines from Dalmatia to Istria, Slavonija and Zagorje. Enjoy one of them with some sardines and the shop’s famed anchovy pie.

Adjacent to the Diocletian Palace, the always-thronged Bokeria Kitchen & Wine offers its’ own alluring specialties. Here the vibe is decidedly young and casual, and the gastronomic flourishes from the bruschetta to the grilled octopus and swordfish are a wonderful mix of Croatian and Mediterranean influences. The Red Roga, a type of pepper with minced meat and creamy mashed potato must also be savored. It’s divine!

Bokeria Kitchen&Wine Bar
Bokeria Kitchen&Wine Bar

So is Dvor Restaurant.

Dvor Restaurant

Commanding views of Solta and Brac islands from its intimate outdoor terrace, the serene, highly-acclaimed Dvor is a Michelin Guide favorite. This restaurant/bar is surrounded by towering pine and tamarisk trees, and its’ very diverse menu also reaches flavorful heights. Especially the seabass pate, freshly-baked olive bread, the mushroom risotto, fish dishes wrapped and roasted in salt, and of course, the fudgy and heavenly chocolate lava cake. It’s a taste Explosion!

But Split’s delights never seem to end. There’s also Os Kolač, Tea Mamut’s pastry shop that is renowned throughout Croatia for its’ green violet cake made with pistachios and blueberries. Every bite of this sweet-sweetie is a thrill, and the same can be said about her vanilla and chocolate cream cakes.

Oš’ kolač – Pastry shop

They sparkle, just like Split!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Chamonix

Planinarski klub Gojzerice za drugi rođendan dobio novog predsjednika

Planinarski klub Gojzerice održao je na Mosoru u planinarskom domu Umberto  Girometta svoju drugu Redovnu i prvu Izbornu  skupštinu. Izabrali su se novi članovi Uprave,  Ivan Jozinović, mladi čovjek od 27 godina postao je novi predsjednik kluba, a Marija Paro dosadašnja predsjednica postala je dopredsjednica. Upravu kluba čine još  Ivica Lolić, Inge Primorac, Sanja Krivić Modrić, Silvana Dragojević i Jure Rakuljić.

pk gojzerice split

Osim održavanja  skupštine, članovi PK Gojzerice imali su  razloga i za veliko slavlje  jer trebalo je što bolje proslaviti drugi rođendan kluba, ali i dobre rezultate postignute tijekom tog perioda.  Okupljeni članovi i njihovi gosti  podijelili  su radost i  dobre vibracije nastale kao plod brojnih zajedničkih aktivnosti,  dobrih izleta i klupskih okupljanja.

Postiglo se i više  od očekivanog

Kada je grupica entuzijasta prije dvije godine predvođena Marijom Paro  krenula u osnivanje kluba  postojala je samo ideja koja je samo tjedan dana poslije toga, 3. siječnja 2018.  i  zaživjela na papiru, ali početnu inicijativu trebalo je realizirati  u stvarnosti te  izgraditi  jedan kvalitetni klub, a time i planinarsku priču.

Trebalo je naći prostor,  okupiti entuzijaste koji će s dvoje – troje  inicijatora pokrenuti novo planinarsko društvo,  organizirati planinarske škole, školovati vodiče koji će voditi ljude na izlete.

Nakon samo dvije godine u klubu su već održane četiri Opće planinarske škole, a peta proljetna već je popunjena, imamo 11 vodiča, neki već završeni, a neki još u procesu školovanja. Nabavilo se dosta  opreme za rad kluba, penjače, feratu , šatorovanje, bivakiranje, alat za uređivanje staza. Obnovila se markacija na stazi od Doca Gornjeg do prijevoja Rašeljka na Mosoru, a u planu je i veliki projekt obnove stare razrušene lugarnice ispod Lišnice, na istoku Mosora.

Svi su zadovoljni, posebno Marija Paro na čiju je ideju i nesebičan  angažman prije dvije godine klub i osnovan.

“Druga Redovna i prva Izborna skupština od prošle se razlikuje po mnogočemu. Na čelo Gojzerica došao je mladi čovjek Ivan Jozinović u kojeg imamo veliko povjerenje, a on će kao mlad čovjek vjerojatno zajedriti nekim novim jedrima, dati klubu neku novu, mladenačku  energiju, ali opet ostati na putu  na kojem su Gojzerice  i razvijale   svoju planinarsku priču. Smatrala sam da je palicu potrebno predati mlađem čovjeku jer  je to po meni jedini ispravni  put. Tijekom ove dvije godine puno smo radili. U tom radu i aktivnostima prepoznala sam Ivana kao kompletnu osobu za ovu funkciju, istina bez iskustva, ali kad se hoće sve se može, a to je vjerujte naš Ivan.

Razumijem ljude da misle da je rano za odstupanje, ali ovaj potez ne znači da sam se umorila i zbog toga odustala,  dapače tek sam se  razigrala. Potpuno sam upoznala rad kluba i njegove vrijednosti, ali za klub je bolje da se pomladi i članstvom i radom, onim  radom prema EU fondovima, širenju infrastrukture,  izgradnji  naše kuće”…

pk gojzerice split

Ivan je preuzeo funkciju predsjednika, ali i njemu  kao i Mariji Paro,  timski rad je ključ za dobro i kvalitetno funkcioniranje kluba.

Da, prihvatio sam i postao predsjednik kluba.  Svi u klub dolazimo s nekim znanjem, pa tako i ja, nastojat ću ga   iskoristiti na najbolji mogući način.  Želim da svi oni koji dođu u klub osjete pripadnost i privrženost, da ovdje  nađu sve ono što je  prirodno i ljudsko . Gojzerice taj smjer već imaju, a  ja ću ga i dalje nastaviti vrlo predano  razvijati. Temelji su jako dobro postavljeni, funkcije u klubu su po meni formalnost, nemaju težinu ako nas naše uže i šire okruženje ne prati i podržava. Dio sam tog okruženja od početka i upravo sam zbog tih ljudskih vrijednosti i vrlina  i prihvatio biti predsjednik kluba.

Do sada je trebalo  mnogo znanja, strpljenja i rada, a da bismo postigli sve što nam je u planu trebat će i više. Svi smo presretni jer smo skupa izgradili jednu predivnu atmosferu, stoga zaslužujemo  svi skupa i uživati u njoj” – završava mladi predsjednik Ivan Jozinović.

  ivan jozinović

 Ivan ima veliku podršku i od ostalih članova Uprave, posebno Ivice Lolića Lole i Silvane Dragojević koji su s Marijom zajedno  osnivali i razvijali  klub. Presretni su i oni,  ponosni na pozitivnu energiju koja se razvija u klubu.

“Kao jedan od osnivača kluba prezadovoljan sam postignutim rezultatima” – kazao nam je Ivica Lolić i nastavio:    “Pokazali smo iskrenu namjeru da na organiziran i kvalitetan   način odvedemo ljude u planinu i pokažemo im  jedan novi, prekrasan svijet koji njima kao urbanim ljudima postaje sve više nepoznat.  Priroda   u ljudima potiče dobre osjećaje  koje i ja osobno  proživljavam  cijeli život hodajući po planinama. Kad se spustim s  planine u dolinu moji su  osjećaji i životni prioriteti  potpuno drugačiji. Svi ti pozitivni doživljaji potaknuti su naporom  kojeg ulažemo hodajući i  taj nam doživljaj postaje  važniji od bilo čega drugog. Za napraviti one posljednje korake  ponekad je potreban  i zadnji  atom snage, ali taj napor oslobađa od psihičkog i emotivnog stresa.  U  dolinu se vraćamo fizički umorni, ali psihički mirni, balansirani, pročišćeni…  Lakše nam je živjeti kada smo sjedinjeni s prirodom jer ona nam pomaže da se sjedinimo i sa sobom.

I u tom smo smislu mnogo napravili, sve naše novo pridošle članove naučili smo kako suživot prirode i čovjeka može biti lijep i ispunjen – kaže nam Ivica Lolić.

Nakon dvije provedene  godine aktivnog članstva Silvana Dragojević ujedno i članica Uprave  ponosna je na cijeli klub i sve ljude u njemu.  Kaže bilo je rada i stresa, a najviše ljubavi!

pk gojzerice split

“Da, bit ću najsretnija ako tako i ostane , a sigurna sam da hoće jer to je  glavna karakteristika  Gojzerica. Osobno, u sebi nosim  silnu ljubav prema ljudima, empatiju, pozitivnu energiju i sve to  želim i dalje prenositi među ljude, među naše planinare. Od svega je najvažnije živjeti  u skladu s prirodom jer ona nas usrećuje, a kada smo sretni i zadovoljni sami sa sobom  imamo poriv tu ljubav dijeliti  i s drugim ljudima. Ljubav se treba širiti jer ako daješ još više ćeš dobiti.  Ljudima jednostavno treba pokazati  koliko život može biti ispunjen, sadržajan i  lijep – završava Silvana ovaj svoj kratki osvrt.

  

A što na kraju reći nego da Gojzerice pozivaju sve drage i pozitivne  ljude da nam  se pridruže  u planinarenju,  radu i aktivnostima  koje im iskustveno najbolje  odgovaraju.  Nema veze koliko vam je godina, važno je koliko je života u njima , nije važno ni  zvanje, ni zanimanje  jer ovo je jedna velika dalmatinska mišanca koja ne poznaje  međugeneracijski jaz jer  naglasak  se stavlja na  zajedništvo, ljudskost, prirodoljublje  i čovjekoljublje.

Ljudi dragi, dobro došli u Planinarski klub Gojzerice!